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Casey Mare & Jeff Cope As the importance of sustainable living and responsible water management grows, harvesting rainwater has become an increasingly popular and eco-friendly practice. Collecting rainwater not only conserves a precious natural resource but also provides a readily available source of water for various outdoor needs. In this article, we will explore the benefits of rainwater harvesting and provide a step-by-step guide on how to collect rainwater at home. The Benefits of Rainwater Harvesting Conservation of Freshwater Resources: Rainwater harvesting reduces the demand on municipal water supplies, helping to conserve freshwater resources. This practice is particularly valuable in regions prone to droughts and water scarcity. Lower Water Bills: By using harvested rainwater for tasks such as watering your garden or flushing toilets, you can significantly reduce your water consumption, leading to lower water bills. Reduction in Stormwater Runoff: Collecting rainwater also helps mitigate the negative impacts of stormwater runoff, which can carry pollutants into local water bodies. Harvesting rainwater keeps excess water from overwhelming drainage systems. Self-Sufficiency: Rainwater harvesting promotes self-sufficiency by providing an alternative water source during water shortages or emergencies. How to Collect Rainwater at Home Gather the Necessary Supplies: A roof or catchment area: A roof with gutters is an ideal catchment area. Gutters and downspouts: To channel rainwater into a collection system. A storage tank or barrel: Select a food-grade, UV-resistant tank or barrel. Go big, a 2,000 gallon tank can support a 600 square foot vegetable garden through a normal summer in the Willamette valley. Fifty gallon barrels and fun, but may only provide enough water to care for your house plants. Screen or filter: To prevent debris and contaminants from entering the collection system. Overflow system: Redirect excess water away from the foundation to prevent flooding and preferably into the municipal rainwater drainage system. If you live in a rural area without a public drainage system in place move the overflow into a drainage ditch, or raingarden. First flush diverter (optional): Collect and discard the initial runoff, which may contain pollutants, and debris. Calculate Rainwater Potential: Determine the size of your catchment area (roof) in square feet. Estimate annual rainfall in your area (inches). Use a simple formula: Annual Rainfall (in inches) x Catchment Area (in square feet) = Potential Rainwater Harvest (in gallons). A conversion of cubit feet to gallons may be necessary. There are 7.48 gallons in a cubit foot of water. Install Gutters and Downspouts: Ensure gutters are properly sloped towards the downspouts. Install a downspout filter or leaf guard to minimize debris entering the system. Set Up a Collection System: Position your storage tank or barrel near a downspout. Connect the downspout to the tank using a downspout diverter. Install an overflow system to prevent water overflow during heavy rains. Screen or Filter Installation: Place a screen or filter at the entry point of the collection system to prevent debris, leaves, and insects from entering. Regular Maintenance: Clean gutters, screens, and filters regularly to ensure optimal water quality. Inspect the storage tank for leaks or damage. Empty and clean the tank periodically to prevent stagnation and bacterial growth. Use and Distribution: Install a spigot near the bottom of the tank for easy access to collected water. Use harvested rainwater for various purposes, such as watering gardens, lawns, or indoor plants, and for non-potable household needs. Purchase a pump that you can hook your hose up to so you can increase the water pressure and delivery if needed. Conclusion Rainwater harvesting is a sustainable and environmentally responsible practice that benefits both homeowners and the planet. By collecting rainwater, you can reduce your reliance on municipal water sources, lower water bills, and contribute to water conservation efforts. It's a simple yet effective way to make a positive impact on the environment while meeting your water needs. Whether you're a seasoned eco-conscious homeowner or just getting started with sustainable living, rainwater harvesting is a valuable practice worth considering, and is fun to do.
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Helen M. Davis You’ve finally gotten the lawn of your dreams put in or perhaps, you are considering it and want to know what you will need to do to keep it looking magnificent. It’s a process that requires a bit of effort throughout the year, but it will pay off when you are gazing with pride at a carpet of lush green grass that is the very essence of what a lawn should be. Come January there really isn’t much to do as you ring in the new year, but you do need to keep an eye out and if needed treat for moss. Nobody wants a lawn that is more moss than grass after all, and moss is an opportunist that will readily take over if given a chance. February is the time to show your lawn that it, too, is your Valentine. Rather than a box of chocolates, however, your lawn will appreciate having broadleaf weeds such as dandelions hand dug out. As far as your lawn is concerned, there is nothing dandy about them. This is also the time to treat with organic fertilizer at the end of the month and, of course, if need be, treat for moss. March brings spring and this brings a need to mow. The inaugural mow should be done with the blade on your mower set low and this is also the time to treat your lawn with lime to balance the pH levels in your soil as too little will begin to inhibit the availability of nutrients and even a lawn needs its nutrition. John and Bob’s Soil Optimizer is 100% organic and safe for both people and pets. Using it will improve poor soil quality and increase fertility, making it a good choice for pampering your lawn. It should be applied at a rater of 1 cup for every 180 square feet. Late March, you will need to de-thatch your lawn, which, for the uninitiated, is the removing of a mat-like layer of organic matter such as dead grass, mulched leaves, rhizomes and other as yet to decompose debris. It is also the time to aerate, or perforate the soil beneath your lawn to allow air, water and nutrients to reach the roots of your grass, which will aid them with growing deeply and producing a stronger, more vibrant lawn. This is helpful especially when you have a lawn that sees heavy use by children, animals, or both, a lawn that was established as part of a newly built home, dries out easily, or was established by sod. With spring firmly entrenched, April is the month that sees your lawn (and your garden) needing to be treated with Compost Tea (biscuits are optional), a liquid version of solid compost material. This tea contains soluble plant nutrients and a complex variety of microorganisms that are beneficial to your lawn. There are a number of ways to prepare compost tea, though for the most part, all teas begin with the mixing of compost in water. This can be applied as a soil drench, foliar spray or made a part of an irrigation system. Don’t forget to ask your lawn, “One lump of sugar or two?” April brings more dethatching and more aerating. Every three years it is good to over seed your lawn after you de-thatch. Your lawn doesn’t like bald spots any more than you do. This is also the month when you should begin insect control and top dress your lawn with a good quality compost. Crane Flies and other grubby pests can be brought under control with Spinosad or even better, parasitic nematodes. If needed, pull any weeds that you see trying to wage a hostile takeover. Once May arrives, it is time to sharpen your mower blade and raise it to an inch and a half to two inches for the best cut now that the grass is growing like, well, a weed. Your lawn will need another compost tea and more fertilizing. If moles and or gophers should dare to invade your lawn and leave telltale mounds here and there, be sure to humanely trap them. May is also when watering should begin and depending on rainfall, you lawn will need up to an inch a week. As summer arrives, watering will become more critical for your lawn’s wellbeing in June. To keep your lawn happy, you should water two to three times a week while applying a half an inch to three quarters of an inch of h20 each time. If you failed to fertilize in May, do so now. As it grows even hotter come July, watering is more important than ever. Once again, apply compost tea. If you feel in the mood, fix a glass of iced tea for yourself and enjoy a little relaxation. August is the hottest month of the year, and your lawn will need up to an inch and a half a week of water. Any summer weeds should be pulled and shown who’s the boss. When September brings with it the arrival of autumn, your lawn should be de-thatched and aerated if you did not do so in spring. Your lawn should also be fertilized later in the month one last time to help it make it through the winter. This is also when you should apply beneficial nematodes, tiny, usually microscopic roundworms that can be used to control caterpillars or grubs that might find your lawn a worthy feast. Nematodes move in moist soil and enter a host they find to be suitable. The nematodes, along with an associated bacterium, will then kill their host within a few days. October is when you can finally stop watering and you also will need to lower your mower blade. If need be, do a trick your lawn will enjoy and treat it for crane fly larvae, and parasitic nematodes. November is a time for giving thanks and who isn’t thankful when you only have to mow when necessary? If it is also necessary, lime your lawn and give it a compost tea application. Your lawn will give thanks right along with you. Once December arrives and the holidays are in full swing, your lawn will need no special care. Because of your hard work and dedication all the rest of the year, your lawn will be merry and bright. Your job is done for a while, and you are free to relax and enjoy yourself. by
Casey Mare As wildfires become more frequent and widespread, the challenges of smoke and ash impacting our outdoor plants have grown. The haze of smoke and the layer of ash can hinder photosynthesis, affect soil pH, and compromise overall plant health. However, with a few essential care steps, you can help your plants weather the effects of smoke and ash and thrive despite these challenges. 1. Clearing the Air: When smoke hangs heavily in the air, plants may struggle to absorb sunlight effectively due to reduced light intensity. While you can't entirely eliminate smoke, you can alleviate its impact by carefully hosing down your plants. Gently spraying water on the foliage helps clear away particles that can block sunlight and impede photosynthesis. 2. Gentle Cleaning: A layer of ash on your plant's leaves can obstruct their ability to breathe and perform vital functions. Use a soft cloth or a fine mist of water to gently remove ash from the foliage. Avoid using strong jets of water that could harm delicate leaves or push ash further into the plant. 3. Proper Watering: During periods of smoke and ash, it's crucial to maintain proper watering practices. Smoke and ash can cause water repellency in the soil, making it harder for water to penetrate and reach the plant's roots. Water your plants deeply and slowly to ensure moisture reaches the root zone. Mulching around the base of your plants can also help retain moisture and protect against the drying effects of smoke and ash. 4. Soil pH Adjustment: Ash from wildfires can increase the alkalinity of the soil, affecting the availability of essential nutrients to your plants. Test your soil's pH levels and consider applying amendments, such as sulfur, to lower the pH if it becomes too alkaline. Consulting with local gardening experts can help you determine the best approach for your specific plant types. 5. Boosting Nutrients: Ash can contain essential nutrients like potassium and calcium, but their availability to plants depends on the pH of your soil. To help your plants benefit from these nutrients, consider applying balanced organic fertilizers that provide a range of necessary elements. This can help offset potential nutrient imbalances caused by the introduction of ash. 6. Pruning Damaged Growth: If your plants' foliage has been significantly damaged by smoke or ash, consider pruning away the affected parts. This can help the plant focus its energy on new growth and recovery. Be cautious not to remove too much healthy growth, as leaves are vital for photosynthesis. 7. Stay Vigilant: Monitor your plants closely in the days and weeks following exposure to smoke and ash. Look for signs of stress, such as wilting, leaf discoloration, or stunted growth. Promptly address any issues you observe with appropriate care, such as adjusting watering frequency or applying targeted fertilizers. 8. Patience and Persistence: Plants have remarkable resilience, and with proper care, they can rebound from the challenges of smoke and ash. Be patient and persistent in your efforts to nurture them back to health. Consistent care, along with time, can often lead to successful recovery. In conclusion, smoke and ash from wildfires can pose challenges to your plants, but with careful attention and proactive care, you can mitigate the negative effects and help your garden thrive. By understanding the needs of your plants and implementing the right strategies, you'll be well-equipped to support their recovery and growth even in the face of environmental challenges. by
Casey Mare Gardening enthusiasts often find joy in cultivating new life from existing plants, and one fascinating way to achieve this is by propagation by cuttings. Cuttings allow you to propagate new plants from a mature parent plant. This method is not only cost-effective but also a satisfying way to expand your garden or share your greenery with others. In this article, we will delve into the art of propagating plants from cuttings , providing you with the knowledge and steps needed to transform these humble cuttings into thriving, independent plants. Choosing the Right Plant Cuttings Before you embark on your plant propagation journey, it's essential to choose the right plant cuttings. Opt for healthy parent plants that exhibit robust growth and disease-free foliage. Additionally, choose stems that are non-flowering and have several sets of leaves. Tender, new growth often produces the best results. Gathering Supplies To successfully propagate plant cuttings, gather the necessary supplies: Pruning Shears: Sharp and clean shears help make precise cuts without damaging the plant. Potting Mix: Use a well-draining potting mix suitable for the type of plant you're propagating, we suggest using Black Gold Seedling Mix. Containers: Small pots or containers with drainage holes are ideal for planting the cuttings. Rooting Hormone (Optional): Rooting hormone can encourage faster root development in some plants. Misting Bottle: A misting bottle helps maintain humidity around the cuttings. Types of Cuttings Softwood cuttings– done in late spring using the soft tip growth 2’3” long. Some plants that do well with softwood cuttings” Impatiens, Dogwood, Fuchsia, Beauty Bush, Mums, deciduous azaleas and more. Greenwood cuttings– done in late spring to mid summer using 3’4” long cuttings. Gardenia, Magnolia, evergreen azaleas and Rhodies. Semi-Ripe cuttings – late summer to early fall using 4-6” cuttings. Bay tree, Glory Bower, Jasmine, Mock Orange. Hardwood cuttings – dormant season, after leaves fall, 8” long. Holly, Blueberry, Grapes, Fig. Step-by-Step Guide to Growing Plant Clippings
Growing plant cuttings is a rewarding journey that allows you to witness the magic of nature firsthand. With careful attention to detail, the right conditions, and a sprinkle of patience, you can turn a simple cutting into a flourishing new plant. Whether you're expanding your garden or sharing the beauty of your plants with friends and family, the art of propagating plant clippings is a skill that will undoubtedly enhance your gardening expertise and deepen your connection with the world of plants. by
Helen M. Davis Oh, the heat. As the mercury creeps upward, things get dryer, including the plants you have worked so hard to cultivate. It seems like no matter how much attention you give them, they still suffer stress in the high temperatures and start to look as though they are gasping their last wee breaths. Do not despair and begin to think your green thumb is actually gangrene. Do not come to the belief that you should summon a priest to give your plants Last Rites. All is not lost and by following these tips, your plants should be happy little campers despite the heat, even if you are feeling like you might just dissolve. WATER LIKE YOU’R A PRO To start off, do your watering in the early morning to allow your plants to absorb as much water as they possibly can. Should you water later during the hotter parts of the day, your plants will absorb less as the heat causes plant physiology to shut down. Drip irrigation or watering by hand is fantastic for getting water at the roots where it’s needed, but you must make sure to wet the entire zone. Otherwise, it will be akin to just giving your plants a tantalizing sip and leaving them thirsty and you wouldn’t want to do that to them anymore than you would want someone to do that to you. For those who prefer to sleep later, or those who would rather not be out in the heat, and those who work outside the home, hose end battery timers on faucets can be used to automatically water so you don’t have to. Overhead watering is another good choice as it can cool the foliage and prevent burning. After all, nobody wants their plants to suffer burnt leaves. That doesn’t look very pretty and we all want our plants to look their best. Some plants shut down in the heat and do not take up water resourcefully so cooling the leaves reduces the stress they suffer. Give them a good shower, and they will be grateful. ADDITIONAL WAYS TO REDUCE YOUR PLANTS WATER NEEDS Mulching is a good practice as it cools the soil and keeps weeds, the bane of every gardener’s existence, from growing and using the water meant for your plants. Mulch can consist of shredded bark or other decorative materials. Compost is a great type of mulch as it also helps to improve the quality of the soil. If you can get it, tree trimmers mulch is a fantastic resource. Because weeds are thieves and take the water meant for your plants for themselves, it is imperative that you remove them. It isn’t necessarily fun, but when you look at a freshly weeded garden, there is a big satisfaction felt about a job well done. HOW MUCH WATER SHOULD YOU USE AND HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU USE IT Flower and vegetable beds require about a inch of water every week, but in the case of extreme heat, they may require more and you should water every day or every other day. Flowers and vegetables in containers may require deep waterings daily if they are located in full sun and potentially every other day if they are located in the shade. To determine if watering is necessary, test the soil with your finger. If it’s dry to you, imagine how your plants must feel. Shrubs and trees that are newly planted should be watered deeply when the soil is dry, and they may need watering every day. Again, use the finger test. Newly planted shrubs and trees will perish if they do without water for a few days. They should be closely watched for two or so years. Young trees require about 10 gallons per inch on their trunk each week. During lengthy dry spells even established shrubs and trees may need to be watered. They get thirsty, too, after all! When you do so, you should apply a deep watering over the entire root zone until the top two feet of soil has been penetrated. Your shrubs and trees will have their thirst quenched and they will think of you as a rock star. It is important to avoid watering lightly as this, naturally, quickly evaporates and has little in the way of benefits to your plants. Shallow watering also results in shallow roots and plants with shallow roots will be more vulnerable to the heat of summer and stress from drought. Deep watering encourages deeper rooting, and this makes for happier plants. LEAVING TOWN FOR AWHILE? Preferably, when you go away, you will have a friend or family member come over to water your plants in your absence. If this is not possible, try the following techniques. For outdoors, place the aforementioned battery timers on your faucets for scheduled waterings. This is easy and works well for both short or long trips. Buy yourself a good low sprinkler or a soaker hose. Attach it to the timer, set the timer for the preferred day, time, and length of watering and you are good to go. If it is possible, containers should be relocated to the shadiest spots in your yard while you are gone and you should also deadhead before you leave as this will alleviate some of the stress on the plants. For those annuals and perennials that rebloom, deadheading will invigorate the plants and you will have fresh blossoms to come home to and enjoy. Having a well-watered garden doesn’t take a degree in rocket science. It just takes a bit of planning and know how. Your plants rely on you and the better the care you give them, the more they will give you whether it be beautiful blossoms or a bounty of produce. Watering can even be enjoyable, and a sense of satisfaction can be experienced with this task as well. You no doubt can think of other things you’d enjoy doing more, but when you see the fruits of your labor, you won’t be able to resist smiling as you take in a job well done. And, who knows? Your plants may be smiling right back at you!
So, you’ve decided that you would like to try your hand at gardening, but you are hesitant. Perhaps you have an arthritic lower back and an equally arthritic knee that makes getting down on the ground so tricky you need to formulate a strategy for getting back onto your feet again. Maybe you live in town and your yard is too small to put in a garden. Don’t despair. There is a solution. It’s known as raised beds, and these have other positives besides easier access and saving space.
What are these other pluses of using raised beds to grow plants and vegetables, you wonder. For starters, raised beds have excellent drainage so you won’t have to worry about your plants becoming waterlogged. Raised beds are also simple to take care of and it’s also easy to tend your plants from all sides while making getting down onto the ground unnecessary if a bed is tall enough to allow one to stand. Raised beds also allow for the easy blending of improved mixes of soil and there is no digging in ground that could double as a slab of concrete. Raised beds also provide a greater harvest per square foot than a traditional garden. Now you are interested. This sounds good, and you wonder what size a raised bed should be. Raised beds should be no less than a six inches tall. Six inches is sufficient for most garden plants, lettuce, cabbage, broccoli etc. Taller beds, (12”) however, are necessary for Tomatoes, corn and other larger garden plants. Eighteen inches high is perfect bench seat height, so you can sit on the edge and reach in. That is better on the back than the shorted beds. Even better is the 24” high beds, they are particularly useful for those achy backs and grouchy knees not to mention easier for those with limited capabilities when it comes to bending and reaching. All sides of the raised bed should be no wider than 4 feet to ensure easy access. Install 3’ wide aisle between the beds. Beds adjacent to a fence should be no more that 2’ wide. You’ve made up your mind. Raised beds are for you. Now you just need to know how to go about building said raised beds. This is best done by using types of wood that are resistant to rotting such as redwood, cedar, or pressure treated wood. Nobody wants to go to all the trouble of building a nice, raised bed or two just to see it decay, after all. It is also recommended that you use galvanized or zinc-coated screws and brackets. Though they can be more difficult to erect, beds constructed from brick or stone can be quite attractive and more durable than beds made from wood. At Home Grown Gardens we encourage the use of Green Beds by Shelter Works. These beds are easy to install and rated at 30 years, twice what you will get with a wood constructed bed. The beds are built, and you are hankering to plant but now you need to decide on what type of soil to use for the best results. After all, you only want the best for your seeds and starts. Nothing less will do. A lot of landscape companies carry soil mixes that are specially designed to be used in raised beds. They are typically a combination of loam (or topsoil), a fibrous organic matter (such as composted bark), sand, and potentially composted manure. Soil purchased from a bulk supplier will need to be amended to get good soil biology, we recommend adding 2” on top of quality garden compost and ½” earth worm castings along with an organic fertilizer, all mixed into the top six inches. The soil should be topped off with 2” of quality compost once a year. OTHER SUGGESTIONS FOR RAISED BED SUCCESS:
Armed with this information, bad backs and bad knees, etc., don’t have to stand in the way of a nice, productive garden. You can grow flowers and fruits and vegetables and not have to worry about space or having a plan for getting back on your feet. With raised beds, you will also have the satisfaction of having built something out of nothing and you will be filled with a sense of pride as you look at your produce, your blossoms and your boxes and think, “I did that.”  “You’ve put in a garden, and you are feeling rather proud of yourself. After the spading and hoeing and tilling, the seeds have sprouted, and the starts have flourished. Before you know it, you will be enjoying fresh from the vine tomatoes, squash, and beans, not to mention lettuce and cabbage and Brussels sprouts. As far as you’re concerned, your garden is such a show piece it’s worthy of being featured in a magazine spread.
Then, one day, you go out and make the horrifying discovery that your beloved garden has been turned into an all you can eat salad bar by ravenous deer and what once was such a source of pride is now nibbled to nothing. All the work you did and all the expense you incurred has been for naught. You have never been more discouraged. How could this have happened? Why did this have to happen? Life is not fair! While it is discouraging to see your garden snuffed out so unceremoniously, there are things you can do to ensure success with a future garden. You can win this war the deer have waged and keep them from sinking their teeth into your produce. It is possible to get to see (and eat) the fruits of your labors. Let’s start with fencing. Your garden area needs a sturdy fence. Deer netting, experience has shown, is something of a joke as the deer will just burst right though it. To have the garden you have dreamed of you will need to go no less than 6 feet high and optimally up to 8 feet high to keep the deer away. Metal fencing is costly, but you can sometimes find deals at home improvement stores. This will require a bit of research on your part. But, to have a garden unmolested will be worth the initial expense. Another option, if you don’t mind inflicting pain, is an electric fence. It is not as spendy as a metal fence and is less conspicuous from a visual standpoint and for obvious reasons will keep the deer away. Another tactic is to erect a fence around individual shrubs and trees so they can be allowed to grow large enough to withstand the deer once the fence is taken down. Repellents are another bit of arsenal that works well in this war. There are a number on the market. All of them, naturally, stake a claim on being the best. However, deer can become accustomed to the same repellent used over and over so it is a good idea to rotate repellents and employ a variety of approaches as you protect your garden. Coyote Urine - This is known to be among the most powerful of “red alert” repellents as deer instinctively heed the warning that predator urine provides. Rather than a yellow liquid however, this is a dry, granular product that is applied as a barrier around a garden. A teaspoon every 8 feet or so should suffice, with the first week requiring three applications to make the odor strong enough to get the deer’s attention. After this has taken place, a monthly re-application is all that will be necessary. Liquid fence – This is a produce that contains Putrescent Egg solids and garlic and also stimulates the predator/fear response in deer. This should be applied monthly to obtain optimum results but is not to be used on edible plants prior to harvest. This product does, unfortunately, possess a strong odor but it does become unnoticeable to humans once it dries. Liquid fence is cost effective and when applied properly, will be very effective in deterring both deer and rabbits. Be sure to use gloves during application of this and similar repellents and do not spray during a period of wind. For those who would rather not dabble in chemicals, there are other ways to enter into combat with deer that are effective to varying degrees such as: Scare tactics – Contech “Scare Crow” Outdoor Animal Deterrent - This is a motion activated sprinkler that is attached to your hose and frightens the beejeebers out of unsuspecting, marauding deer or any other creature that dares to wage an invasion of your garden. It works for up to 4 months on a single battery and is a great tool for the vegetable garden when you would rather not go to the trouble of erecting a fence. Deer-O-Scaping – This involves planting deer resistant plants. A copy of the Deer Resistant Plant List can be obtained from Home Grown Gardens in Corvallis. Should you stop by, feel free to ask a nursery associate to assist you in making some appropriate choices for your yard. Home Remedies – There are many of these. People have been known to hang bars of deodorant soap, dryer sheets, and strings of bells in an effort to keep the deer away while others have used a homemade egg wash of 1 fresh egg mixed in 1 quart of water that is shaken well and then sprayed on. The effectiveness of these things varies with some people swearing by their strategy while others are left swearing at it or, rather, the deer. All in all, what will work best for you will require your judgement as you consider your time availability and your monetary resources. But with the right amount of tenacity, not to mention plain old luck, a beautiful, productive garden can be yours and who knows? Perhaps that magazine spread might actually happen! Good luck! by
Casey Mare If you're looking for alternatives to a traditional lawn, there are several creative and environmentally friendly options to consider. Here are some alternatives that can be both visually appealing and require less maintenance: Native or low-maintenance grasses: Consider replacing your traditional lawn with native grasses or low-maintenance grass varieties that require less water, fertilizer, and mowing. These grasses are typically more drought-tolerant and better adapted to your local climate. Ground covers: Explore ground cover options that can replace a lawn. Examples include creeping thyme, clover, moss, or ornamental grasses. These alternatives provide green coverage while requiring less maintenance and water than a traditional lawn. Perennial gardens: Convert your lawn into a vibrant perennial garden filled with native plants and flowers. Select plants that are well-suited to your region's climate and require minimal watering once established. Perennial gardens offer visual interest, attract pollinators, and can be low maintenance. Rock gardens: Create a beautiful rock garden with various sizes and types of rocks, complemented by drought-tolerant plants and succulents. Rock gardens can be visually striking and require minimal watering and upkeep. Mulched areas: Designate certain areas of your yard for mulching instead of having a continuous lawn. Mulch helps retain moisture in the soil, suppresses weed growth, and reduces the need for frequent watering. Edible gardens: Transform your lawn into a productive space by creating an edible garden. Plant vegetables, herbs, or fruit trees in designated raised beds or containers. This alternative not only reduces lawn maintenance but also provides fresh produce for your family. Natural meadow or wildflower patches: Allow an area of your yard to grow naturally into a meadow or create a wildflower patch. This option supports local wildlife, requires minimal maintenance, and can provide bursts of color during blooming seasons. Paved or gravel areas: Install paved or gravel pathways, patio areas, or seating spaces to reduce the amount of lawn. These areas offer functionality while minimizing the need for water and maintenance. Remember to consider your specific climate, local regulations, and personal preferences when choosing an alternative to a traditional lawn. It's also important to research and select plants that are suitable for your region to ensure their success. Removing blackberries can be a challenging task due to their vigorous growth and invasive nature. Here are some tips to safely and effectively remove blackberries:
Protective Gear: Before starting the removal process, wear protective gear, including long sleeves, pants, gloves, (gauntlet or rose gloves are great to protect the forearm) and closed-toe shoes, to avoid direct contact with the thorny canes. Timing: Plan the removal during the late summer or early fall when the soil is moist, making it easier to uproot the plants. Avoid removing blackberries during the active growing season, as they may regenerate quickly. Cut and Remove Canes: Begin by cutting back the blackberry canes to a manageable height of 6 to 12 inches above the ground. Use sharp pruning shears or a handheld saw to cut the canes. Collect the cut canes and dispose of them properly to prevent re-sprouting. Digging and Uprooting: Use a shovel, Pulaski, or cutter mattock to dig out the stumps and roots of the blackberry plants. Dig deeply to loosen the roots and rhizomes. Carefully lift the plant from the ground, ensuring you remove as much of the root system as possible. Dispose of the extracted plants away from your garden to prevent re-establishment. Another option is to covering and smother: After removing the blackberry plants, cover the area with a heavy-duty ground cover fabric. Left in place for a minimum or one year will deplete the roots of nutrition (sunlight) and exhaust their reserves causing death. This will help prevent regrowth and suppress the emergence of new blackberry plants. Regular Maintenance: Monitor the area for any signs of blackberry regrowth. Inspect the site regularly and promptly remove any new shoots or seedlings before they become established. Consistency is key to preventing the spread of blackberries. Herbicides (Optional): If the infestation is extensive and manual removal is not sufficient, you may consider using herbicides as a last resort. Consult with a local gardening expert or professional like Home Grown Gardens to identify an appropriate herbicide and follow the instructions carefully to ensure safe and effective application. Always consider environmental factors and adhere to local regulations when using herbicides. Remember, removing blackberries can be an ongoing process, and persistence is necessary to prevent their reestablishment. Regular maintenance, combined with proper disposal of plant materials and preventive measures, will help keep blackberries under control in your garden or landscape. |
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