 “You’ve put in a garden, and you are feeling rather proud of yourself. After the spading and hoeing and tilling, the seeds have sprouted, and the starts have flourished. Before you know it, you will be enjoying fresh from the vine tomatoes, squash, and beans, not to mention lettuce and cabbage and Brussels sprouts. As far as you’re concerned, your garden is such a show piece it’s worthy of being featured in a magazine spread.
Then, one day, you go out and make the horrifying discovery that your beloved garden has been turned into an all you can eat salad bar by ravenous deer and what once was such a source of pride is now nibbled to nothing. All the work you did and all the expense you incurred has been for naught. You have never been more discouraged. How could this have happened? Why did this have to happen? Life is not fair! While it is discouraging to see your garden snuffed out so unceremoniously, there are things you can do to ensure success with a future garden. You can win this war the deer have waged and keep them from sinking their teeth into your produce. It is possible to get to see (and eat) the fruits of your labors. Let’s start with fencing. Your garden area needs a sturdy fence. Deer netting, experience has shown, is something of a joke as the deer will just burst right though it. To have the garden you have dreamed of you will need to go no less than 6 feet high and optimally up to 8 feet high to keep the deer away. Metal fencing is costly, but you can sometimes find deals at home improvement stores. This will require a bit of research on your part. But, to have a garden unmolested will be worth the initial expense. Another option, if you don’t mind inflicting pain, is an electric fence. It is not as spendy as a metal fence and is less conspicuous from a visual standpoint and for obvious reasons will keep the deer away. Another tactic is to erect a fence around individual shrubs and trees so they can be allowed to grow large enough to withstand the deer once the fence is taken down. Repellents are another bit of arsenal that works well in this war. There are a number on the market. All of them, naturally, stake a claim on being the best. However, deer can become accustomed to the same repellent used over and over so it is a good idea to rotate repellents and employ a variety of approaches as you protect your garden. Coyote Urine - This is known to be among the most powerful of “red alert” repellents as deer instinctively heed the warning that predator urine provides. Rather than a yellow liquid however, this is a dry, granular product that is applied as a barrier around a garden. A teaspoon every 8 feet or so should suffice, with the first week requiring three applications to make the odor strong enough to get the deer’s attention. After this has taken place, a monthly re-application is all that will be necessary. Liquid fence – This is a produce that contains Putrescent Egg solids and garlic and also stimulates the predator/fear response in deer. This should be applied monthly to obtain optimum results but is not to be used on edible plants prior to harvest. This product does, unfortunately, possess a strong odor but it does become unnoticeable to humans once it dries. Liquid fence is cost effective and when applied properly, will be very effective in deterring both deer and rabbits. Be sure to use gloves during application of this and similar repellents and do not spray during a period of wind. For those who would rather not dabble in chemicals, there are other ways to enter into combat with deer that are effective to varying degrees such as: Scare tactics – Contech “Scare Crow” Outdoor Animal Deterrent - This is a motion activated sprinkler that is attached to your hose and frightens the beejeebers out of unsuspecting, marauding deer or any other creature that dares to wage an invasion of your garden. It works for up to 4 months on a single battery and is a great tool for the vegetable garden when you would rather not go to the trouble of erecting a fence. Deer-O-Scaping – This involves planting deer resistant plants. A copy of the Deer Resistant Plant List can be obtained from Home Grown Gardens in Corvallis. Should you stop by, feel free to ask a nursery associate to assist you in making some appropriate choices for your yard. Home Remedies – There are many of these. People have been known to hang bars of deodorant soap, dryer sheets, and strings of bells in an effort to keep the deer away while others have used a homemade egg wash of 1 fresh egg mixed in 1 quart of water that is shaken well and then sprayed on. The effectiveness of these things varies with some people swearing by their strategy while others are left swearing at it or, rather, the deer. All in all, what will work best for you will require your judgement as you consider your time availability and your monetary resources. But with the right amount of tenacity, not to mention plain old luck, a beautiful, productive garden can be yours and who knows? Perhaps that magazine spread might actually happen! Good luck!
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Casey Mare If you're looking for alternatives to a traditional lawn, there are several creative and environmentally friendly options to consider. Here are some alternatives that can be both visually appealing and require less maintenance: Native or low-maintenance grasses: Consider replacing your traditional lawn with native grasses or low-maintenance grass varieties that require less water, fertilizer, and mowing. These grasses are typically more drought-tolerant and better adapted to your local climate. Ground covers: Explore ground cover options that can replace a lawn. Examples include creeping thyme, clover, moss, or ornamental grasses. These alternatives provide green coverage while requiring less maintenance and water than a traditional lawn. Perennial gardens: Convert your lawn into a vibrant perennial garden filled with native plants and flowers. Select plants that are well-suited to your region's climate and require minimal watering once established. Perennial gardens offer visual interest, attract pollinators, and can be low maintenance. Rock gardens: Create a beautiful rock garden with various sizes and types of rocks, complemented by drought-tolerant plants and succulents. Rock gardens can be visually striking and require minimal watering and upkeep. Mulched areas: Designate certain areas of your yard for mulching instead of having a continuous lawn. Mulch helps retain moisture in the soil, suppresses weed growth, and reduces the need for frequent watering. Edible gardens: Transform your lawn into a productive space by creating an edible garden. Plant vegetables, herbs, or fruit trees in designated raised beds or containers. This alternative not only reduces lawn maintenance but also provides fresh produce for your family. Natural meadow or wildflower patches: Allow an area of your yard to grow naturally into a meadow or create a wildflower patch. This option supports local wildlife, requires minimal maintenance, and can provide bursts of color during blooming seasons. Paved or gravel areas: Install paved or gravel pathways, patio areas, or seating spaces to reduce the amount of lawn. These areas offer functionality while minimizing the need for water and maintenance. Remember to consider your specific climate, local regulations, and personal preferences when choosing an alternative to a traditional lawn. It's also important to research and select plants that are suitable for your region to ensure their success. Removing blackberries can be a challenging task due to their vigorous growth and invasive nature. Here are some tips to safely and effectively remove blackberries:
Protective Gear: Before starting the removal process, wear protective gear, including long sleeves, pants, gloves, (gauntlet or rose gloves are great to protect the forearm) and closed-toe shoes, to avoid direct contact with the thorny canes. Timing: Plan the removal during the late summer or early fall when the soil is moist, making it easier to uproot the plants. Avoid removing blackberries during the active growing season, as they may regenerate quickly. Cut and Remove Canes: Begin by cutting back the blackberry canes to a manageable height of 6 to 12 inches above the ground. Use sharp pruning shears or a handheld saw to cut the canes. Collect the cut canes and dispose of them properly to prevent re-sprouting. Digging and Uprooting: Use a shovel, Pulaski, or cutter mattock to dig out the stumps and roots of the blackberry plants. Dig deeply to loosen the roots and rhizomes. Carefully lift the plant from the ground, ensuring you remove as much of the root system as possible. Dispose of the extracted plants away from your garden to prevent re-establishment. Another option is to covering and smother: After removing the blackberry plants, cover the area with a heavy-duty ground cover fabric. Left in place for a minimum or one year will deplete the roots of nutrition (sunlight) and exhaust their reserves causing death. This will help prevent regrowth and suppress the emergence of new blackberry plants. Regular Maintenance: Monitor the area for any signs of blackberry regrowth. Inspect the site regularly and promptly remove any new shoots or seedlings before they become established. Consistency is key to preventing the spread of blackberries. Herbicides (Optional): If the infestation is extensive and manual removal is not sufficient, you may consider using herbicides as a last resort. Consult with a local gardening expert or professional like Home Grown Gardens to identify an appropriate herbicide and follow the instructions carefully to ensure safe and effective application. Always consider environmental factors and adhere to local regulations when using herbicides. Remember, removing blackberries can be an ongoing process, and persistence is necessary to prevent their reestablishment. Regular maintenance, combined with proper disposal of plant materials and preventive measures, will help keep blackberries under control in your garden or landscape. Dealing with gnats can be frustrating, but there are several effective methods to get rid of them. Here are some approaches you can try:
1.) Identify the Source: First, locate the source of the infestation. Gnats are typically attracted to decaying organic matter, so check for overripe fruits, damp soil, or standing water where they may be breeding. 2.) Remove Breeding Sites: Eliminate or reduce breeding sites to prevent the gnats from multiplying. Dispose of any rotting fruits or vegetables, empty and clean garbage cans, and fix any leaks or areas of moisture accumulation. 3.) Cleanliness and Hygiene: Keep your living spaces clean and free of food debris. Wipe down counters, clean spills promptly, and ensure that kitchen and trash areas are well-maintained. Empty and clean pet food dishes regularly. 4.) Use Vinegar Traps: Create a simple vinegar trap by filling a small bowl or jar with apple cider vinegar or red wine vinegar. Cover it with plastic wrap and poke a few small holes in it. The gnats will be attracted to the scent and get trapped inside. 5.) Fruit Fly Traps: If the gnats are primarily fruit flies, you can use commercially available fruit fly traps or make your own. Fill a jar with a mixture of water, a few drops of dish soap, and a splash of apple cider vinegar. Cover the jar with plastic wrap and secure it with a rubber band. Poke small holes in the plastic wrap. The flies will be lured by the vinegar scent and get trapped in the liquid. 6.) Sticky Traps: Place sticky traps, which are readily available at gardening stores or online, near areas where the gnats are most active. The sticky surface will catch the flying insects and help control the population. 7.) Natural Repellents: Some natural repellents, such as essential oils, can deter gnats. Lemon eucalyptus, lavender, and peppermint oils are known to be effective. Dilute a few drops of the oil in water and spray it around windows, doorways, and other entry points. 8.) Increase Ventilation: Gnats are attracted to stagnant air, so increase airflow by opening windows, using fans, or improving ventilation systems. 9.) Professional Help: If the infestation persists despite your efforts, consider contacting a pest control professional who can assess the situation and provide targeted solutions. Consistency and patience are key when dealing with gnats. By eliminating breeding sites, practicing good hygiene, using traps, and applying natural repellents, you can significantly reduce the population and prevent future infestations. Citronella is commonly known for its mosquito-repellent properties rather than its ability to kill mosquitoes. The strong scent of citronella masks the scents that attract mosquitoes, making it more difficult for them to locate their human targets. It acts as a natural deterrent and can help reduce mosquito bites. However, citronella does not have the same lethal effect on mosquitoes as insecticides do.
When citronella oil is applied or used in candles, diffusers, or other products, it releases a strong aroma that interferes with the mosquito's ability to detect the presence of humans. Mosquitoes rely on their sense of smell to locate potential hosts, and the strong scent of citronella confuses and repels them. It's important to note that while citronella can help in reducing mosquito activity and bites, its effectiveness can vary depending on factors such as the concentration of citronella, the application method, environmental conditions, and individual mosquito behavior. It is not a foolproof solution and may be more effective in smaller, confined areas rather than large open spaces. To maximize the effectiveness of citronella, consider the following tips:
While citronella can be a useful tool in a comprehensive mosquito control strategy, it's important to remember that it primarily repels rather than kills mosquitoes. For areas with a high mosquito population or to address potential health concerns related to mosquito-borne diseases, it is advisable to consult with local authorities or use proven insecticides that are specifically designed for mosquito control. |
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